Discussions with Zharphyn

Animals

A Dog’s Life

by Zharphyn on Jul.31, 2010, under Animals, General

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My wife and I are avid pet lovers.  During our marriage, we have had 2 cats, 3 bunnies, 2 dogs, 6 mice, 2 turtles, regular hamsters, dwarf hamsters, teddy bear hamsters, and two 55 gallon aquariums containing goldfish and tropical fish.  Our pets have given us a great deal of joy over the years.  Many fish have received a “burial at sea”, and the pet graveyard in the corner of my yard is getting full (hamsters and mice only have a 2-3 year lifespan).  It is rarely dull at my house.

Three years ago, my wife gave birth to our first child; my “precious angel” Sydney, and last year my “little buddy” Spencer joined us.  Needless to say it is getting crowded in my house.  My two dogs have taken the hardest hit since my children were born.  Going for a walk becomes a family event as my wife and I try to marshal two dogs and a double stroller.  Unfortunately with me now working twelve hour days 5 and 6 days a week, these kind of family events are becoming rarer and rarer.  My Staffordshire Terrier “Jake” needs a great deal of attention and affection.  In six years, he has stubbornly refused to learn how to walk on a leash.  He still strains against the leash, putting maximum tension on his neck.  I have tried traditional collars, “choker” collars, a head harness, and a body harness, and nothing works.  With the head harness, he does not pull, instead he struggles with the harness until he has finally worked it off of his nose, or he just sullenly trails behind me, clearly miserable.  At home, he is always underfoot because he wants attention.  Whenever we have any company, he goes berserk trying to get to the newcomer to say hello.  This would not be so bad, except that Jake’s method for hello is to climb all over you and lick your face until you drown.  Whenever we have company, we have to lock the dogs in our bedroom for the duration of the visit.  My wife has completely lost patience with Jake.  My three year old daughter, when asked, says that she does not like Jake.  Jake wants to run, but my yard is too small for him.  I feel horrible because I feel that I am not being fair to him, but when I stop to look at my options, I am uncertain what to do.  I do not have the time available to give him the attention that he needs.  If I try to find him a new home, am I being fair separating Jake from his buddy Simon (my other dog), or do I need to try and find a new home for both dogs together?  How does one even go about finding a good home for a dog?  Does it make me a bad owner to try and find a new home for Jake?  He was abandoned when he was about 9 months old.  My mother-in-law was sitting on her front porch at about 11pm one night when she noticed a van stop just up the road, a door opened and shut quickly and the van drove away.  Within a couple of minutes, there was a dog running along her front fence.  Jake spent one night at my MiL’s where he howled all night long, and then came to live with my wife and I.  For the first week or two he howled a lot, but now, after six years, he is an extremely happy dog.  I know in my heart that I cannot provide him the life that he deserves.  I know that he would find happiness with a new family.  But do I have the right to uproot him from his home and abandon him to a stranger?  I wish that I knew the right thing to do.


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The nameless narrator of The Dogs: A Modern Bestiary lives in her studio apartment with a pack of Doberman pinchers. The dogs, led by the cruel, charismatic bitch named Miss Dog, alternate between being brutal attack animals and loyal companions, being real and otherworldly. Some chapters draw upon the ecstatic and horrifying visions of Christian mystics; others take place in the landscapes of familiar fairytales; others in the banal settings of the late-night pick-up bars or suburban picnics. The narrator uneasily inhabits these worlds until the dogs force her to take irrevocable action. Rebecca Brown is the author of other fictions, including The Terrible Girls, Annie Oakley”s Girl, and The Gifts of the Body. She lives in Seattle.


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How do I get newts into my pond?

by Zharphyn on Jul.21, 2010, under Newts

+newt, +pond

Newts are a type of amphibian that look a lot like salamanders. However, unlike salamanders, newts spend most or all of their life in the water. They are descended from salamanders, but they separated about sixty million years. Now, are found in many temperate parts of the world, including Asia, North Africa, Europe and North America.

Newts are popular among pond owners. They are charming, beautiful animals in their own right. A pond with a population of newts also means that the pond is very healthy because these creatures have some specific vital needs. If you are thinking to colonize the pond with newts, or set to attract these little creatures, here’s some information that might help.

Newts often are food for other creatures. This means that having newts could attract some birds to your pond, and also means you have to pay attention to what is living in and around if you want to keep your newt population alive. Carnivorous fish tend to choose these small lizard-like creatures, making it difficult to keep the population up. Also, if ducks frequent the pond, they can eat the vegetation that the newts use to hide their eggs. This does not mean you have to chase all predatory birds away or transfer all of the fish out of the newt pond, but it’s a good idea to try to provide a habitat and other conditions that encourage a thriving population that will not be damaged by too many predators.

Other hazards that can kill native newts is a small pond that requires a circulation pump, because newts can be sucked into the pump and killed. Even if you use wire mesh, these pumps can kill very small newts. You can solve this problem by using an ultra fine mesh, or by placing the pump under a pot with a hole in it. Remember to use a screen over the hole as well. These methods reduce the number of newts you will lose, and make it less unpleasant to clean the filter.

Newts do not need very deep water, and prefer slopes with lots of plants. High density weeds will encourage them. A well designed  environment will assist you in developing a large population that will be able to withstand predatory fish and birds. Although the tadpoles and young newts will be the most common victims, a healthy pond will have enough new births that your population will  increase. Expect to see baby newts around April and May, if your animals are breeding. You can either make your pond suitable for the local species of newt that you’d like to attract (specific conditions vary by species) or purchase newts and stock your pond. The second is more expensive, but also gives you a better chance of seeing these animals live and grow in your waters.

Female Palmate Newt in my garden pond.

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State of Maine bans sales of Red-Eared Sliders

by Zharphyn on Jan.19, 2010, under Turtles

Too many people purchase those adorable baby turtles at their pet shop without any knowledge of the species. People do not seem to realize that baby turtles will grow up to be adult turtles, with a corresponding size increase. One of the more common species of pet turtles, the Red-Eared Slider (Trachemys scripta elegans) will grow to be up to 12″ in diameter. These elegant creatures are relatively easy to care for, if you know what you are doing.

Unfortunately, too many people do no research before purchasing one, relying instead upon the knowledge of the pet store staff. Do people not realize that pet store staff are underpaid, and typically possess little knowledge beyond their own experiences. I was at a local pet store recently where I saw “Turtle Starter Kits” for sale. The kit was a ten gallon aquarium with filter and heater, and included a baby Red-Eared Slider. As I was laughing to myself about the stupidity of this package, a man and his son picked one up with the intention of purchasing for the eight year old boy to raise. I quickly asked the man what he knew about how to care for the turtle, and he implied that he assumed it was similar to a fish. When I informed him that while the ten gallon aquarium would be an adequate sized house for the turtle today, it would very quickly outgrow its environment and require a much bigger aquarium very soon. He asked how long I thought the ten gallon would be big enough, and I responded “less than a year”. I told him that the turtle requires sufficient swimming space in relation to its size, and as the turtle grows, its space requirements will increase. He wound up putting the kit back on the shelf, and suggested to his son that they find a different animal. I found the nearest salesperson, and I asked who had put together the kit. He told me that it was the store owner that had assembled the kit. I asked if he knew how big the turtles would grow, and he responded that the kit is supposed to be just to get you started, and that you would need to purchase larger capacity equipment over time.

It is attitudes like this that have led many places to change and create laws to deal with the sale of turtles. In 1975, U.S. Food and Drug Administration banned the sale of turtle eggs and turtles with a carapace length of less than 4 inches, although a loophole in the FDA regulation allows turtles under 4 inches to be sold “for bona fide scientific, educational, or exhibitional purposes, other than use as pets. The State of Maine just changed their laws to specifically ban the sale of Red-Eared Sliders. Too many people release their turtle into the wild when they outgrow their homes. Most ponds and lakes near where I live have a population of Red-Eared Sliders, and they are not an indigenous species to this area. They are becoming viewed as an invasive species. The Red-eared Slider is banned in Australia because of the threat the species poses to wildlife. Anyone that keeps or breeds Red-eared Sliders could face fines of more than $100,000 or five years’ jail.

Remember, pets are forever. You should never accept an animal that you do not know how to care for through its entire lifespan.

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Innovative Aquarium Designs

by Zharphyn on Jan.12, 2010, under Fish


Aquarium designs are becoming increasingly creative. No longer are you destined to have a basic rectangle to house your fish. Some designers are using existing obsolete objects such as phone booths and toilets to create unique aquariums, and others are creating designs reminiscent of hamster cages. You are now able to purchase an aquarium to suit your decor, rather than trying to make your aquarium blend in.

Octopus Studios has created what they call the Silverfish Aquarium. Inspired by hamster cages, the Silverfish is six globes connected with tunnels, and has a water capacity of 230 litres. The Silverfish comes complete with a heater, undergravel filters, an external filter, and an airpump. Despite its unusual appearance, Octopus Studios claims “due to the extremely high quality filters used, along with an innovative filter combination, maintenance effort can be slightly lower than with a standard rectangular design.” If this is true, it would certainly be an interesting aquarium to own.

For those of us that do not have the space for any more aquariums, you can find several models that are integrated into your furniture. The Moody Washbasin and the Aquariass would make for an interesting bathroom experience. With the Aquariass, a separate “tank” contains the fish so that when you flush, the aquarium is not affected. The washbasin is insulated to protect the aquarium from overheating when using hotwater. Having the aquarium integrated into the coffee table, or dining room table can make for an impressive conversation piece. With many designs available, finding the one that suits the room can become a challenge of too many choices rather than from too few.

The ZeroEdge Aquarium looks to infinity pools for inspiration. With water spilling over all four sides to give the illusion that there are no sides to the aquarium. Water gets channelled back into an overflow tank and pumped back into the aquarium from the bottom. These aquariums have
amazing beauty and are available in a variety of shapes and sizes. Keep in mind however, that these are a lidless aquarium, and some species of fish are known to jump.

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Caring for your Red-Eared Slider

by Zharphyn on Jan.05, 2010, under Turtles

There is much belief that turtles are difficult to care for, and will kill you with Salmonella poisoning if you touch the outside of their habitat. These beliefs are not true. In the 60s and 70s, people would keep their little pet turtles in small bowls with unfiltered water. These bowls were too small for the turtle, yet the turtles had to live in, swim in and eat in the same water that they use as a bathroom. If this water is not cleaned regularly, naturally it will lead to health problems. Imagine that you lived in a small room; you ate off of the floor, and you used the same floor as your bathroom. How long would it take for you to contract serious health problems? Turtles are no different. The turtle will become ill, and the turtle’s shell will become a haven for bacteria. It is recommended that you always wash your hands immediately after handling your turtles or touching their environment. Putting your hands into their water can be as dirty as cleaning your cat litter box with your bare hands.
While a little turtle in the store can be very cute, it is much the same as any other animal. The baby animal will grow into a larger animal. A baby Red Eared Slider can be 1″ or smaller, yet full grown they can be up to 12″ in length. To determine what size you need for your turtle, you can use the following guidelines. The length of the water area should be at least 5 times the length of the turtle, the width should be at least 3 times the length of the turtle, and the water should be at least 1.5 to 2 times as deep as your turtle is long. A 12″ long turtle would need a tank 5′ long, 3′ wide, and 18″-24″ water depth. Which calculates to a 225 US gallon aquarium. When you factor in the weight of water, you are in excess of one tonne. This can be a daunting concept for some people, but when you consider the beauty of watching happy, healthy turtles, it is well worth the investment. Also, you do not need to jump right in to the large tank, my turtles are five years old, and are happily living in my 108 gallon tank.
Your turtles will need somewhere that they can get out of the water and bask. The basking area can be provided by stacking smooth rocks, sloping smooth large gravel to one side to make a land area, using wood, or a plastic “turtle dock.” Whatever you choose to construct a basking spot, make sure your turtle can climb onto it easily, and that it allows your turtle to completely dry off. Turtles are strong swimmers and tend to push their way through obstacles, so make certain that, however you design the basking area, it is very secure and stable. The basking area will need to have a basking light. You can use a reptile bulb/heat lamp in a reflective cover, but make certain that there is no way the turtles are able to touch the light or that the light can fall into the water. The basking light will help heat the air in the tank, as well. In addition to the basking light, you need to have a full spectrum reptile UVA/UVB light. Turtles need UVA/UVB light to maintain overall health such as improving appetite. When the weather is sunny and warm, you should bring your turtles outside where they can benefit from natural sunlight.
The temperature of both the water and the air is very important. Try to maintain a water temperature of 23-26 C (75-78 F), and a general air temperature of 24-27 C (75-80 F) with the basking spot at 32-35 C (90-95 F). If you have hatchlings, increase the water temp approximately one degree over the top of the normal range. If you use a submersible heater to maintain water temperature, be aware that the turtles will beat it up and knock it around. Try to position the heater in a way that the turtles will not come into contact with it. Have a good thermometer to monitor water temperature, but avoid the stick on strip style, they can be influenced by the temperature in the room.
Turtles are very messy creatures, so extra filtration is necessary. As a rough guideline, when you are choosing your filters, cut in half the estimated tank size that the filter claims to maintain. You will also need to use a gravel cleaner regularly, and maintain a weekly 25% water change. Some people try to feed their turtles in separate containers to minimize the mess made in the main aquarium.
With the correct care and conditions, a healthy Red Eared Slider can live a very long time. I have heard estimates of between 20 and 50 years. Which means that unlike that rodent which will quickly teach your children about death, a turtle will become a member of the family and can watch your children be born, grow up, get married and have children of their own.


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Freshwater aquarium set-up

by Zharphyn on Dec.30, 2009, under Fish

The initial setup of a new aquarium is relatively easy, but there are a few things to keep in mind.  First you need to find a suitable location for the new aquarium.  Remember that a full aquarium is heavy.  Water weighs almost ten pounds per gallon.  If you have a ten gallon aquarium, you will be filling it with almost 100 pounds of water.  Water is not the only thing that you will place into your aquarium.  You will want a suitable depth of substrate at the bottom of the tank.  The substrate  increases the weight.   A standard 33 US gallon aquarium (33″L x 18″W x 12″H) holds approximately 31 US gallons of water which weighs 260lbs.  If you use small rock substrate at a depth of two inches, you add an additional 46lbs.  The moral is, make certain that the location you are placing the aquarium can support the weight, and recognize that in order to relocate the aquarium is a major undertaking.

Once you have located the correct location for your new aquarium, now you have to fill it.  In the freshwater aquarium, I am a big fan of the under-gravel filter with powerheads.  The basic principle behind the under-gravel filter is quite simple.  Water is drawn down through the substrate, which causes the substrate to become a dual purpose filter.  First, the substrate acts as a basic filter for the larger suspended particles.  As the water passes through the substrate, the larger particles become caught in the substrate.  This allows the growth of the nitrifying bacteria which act as the biological filter for the aquarium.  I like to use powerheads to move the water through the system,  but you can also use an air pump.  For an air pump, you simply insert the airline to the bottom of the filter stack, and the air bubbles move the water through the system.  With the powerhead, you mount the motor on the top of the filter stack and the pump sucks the water up the stack and recirculates the water back into the tank.  The powerhead drives significantly more water through the system which makes the filter more efficient, however, the airpump reoxyginates the water.  You can pump air into the tank simply by using an airpump into a variety of decorative toys or airstones.

Having sufficient biological filtration is a primary key to success in keeping any aquarium. There are a number of filtration methods to choose from, but not making the right filter selection for the bio-load planned for your tank can lead to a wide variety of problems. Whether it be biological, mechanical, or chemical, it’s better to have more, rather than too little filtration. In addition to the undergravel filter, I also use a “hang-on-tank” filter. Hang-on-tank filters can provide all three main types of filtration: mechanical, chemical, and biological. The undergravel filter provides mechanical and biological filtration, and used in conjunction with a hang-on-tank filter providing mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration will provide sufficient filtration for a tropical aquarium setup. Saltwater setups require more filtration and equipment, and I will get into that in a future post.

Once you lay the undergravel filtration plate, you want to cover it with a minimum of two inches of substrate. The finer the substrate material that you choose, the greater the level of mechanical filtration. If you have positioned your undergravel filtration plate correctly, you will be able to layer some substrate between the plate and the glass of the aquarium to hide the plate. With the substrate in place, it is time to add water. Fill the aquarium approximately three quarters full, this allows room to add your decorations. Make certain that you add water to the hang-on-tank filter to help prime the filter. Regular tap water is just fine to use, but it is very beneficial to add water conditioner. This will help to remove chlorine, chloramine, nitrates, and nitrites, while at the same time aiding the growth of the beneficial bacteria. Once you have added all the decorations that you intend to use, add more water to raise the water level over the power heads. Do not fill the tank completely, because when you bring your fish home, they will come in bags of water. When the power heads are covered, turn on the filters. You should let the tank run for a minimum of 48 hours before adding any fish. It would be better if the tank was left running without fish for a week before adding the fish. This allows the bacteria growth to occur, and for the water to stabilize. If the water is not ready when you add fish, you will get to watch your fish die. When you do add fish, you want to add fish slowly so as to not shock the system. The bacteria growth will balance to the quantity of fish in the tank. If you add too many fish at a time, the bacteria will not be able to keep up and your tank ph level will increase, and the levels of nitrate and nitrite will go to toxic levels.

I will discuss maintenance routines, and choosing fish at another time.

-Zharphyn


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